The next day, wednesday, we finally made it out of Rouen (not before bothering the tourist information office again, and finding a cybercafe) and decided upon the beautiful and tourist-y route through the industrial heartland of the Rouen region. The road was incredibly bumpy, and I fear I have done some lasting damage to the frame. We thought we got lost, but finally Danny found our turning and we continued on. Finally we did lose our way, but after some quick map-checking and a bit of luck found this beautiful pass over the hills, perfect for cycling. Other cyclists had the same idea, and there were many groups of cyclists all practicing their racing. We, with our heavy bags, raced past them on the hill down at speeds that I dare not even contemplate (also my little cycling computer was playing up so there was no way to tell, certainly 30mph would not be an overestimate). Danny got some good pictures of us cycling that bit, but I was enjoying myself too much to care!
I had given my map-reading responsibilities over to Danny for the while as he had just brought a new handlebar bag (though he insists on calling it a front pannier, which is most confusing). I was trying not to interfere, but I think I was being a bit of a backseat map-reader (which would make more sense on a tandem). We arrived in Louvier, where our next campsite was to be found, a little bit the worse for wear, but I soon became quite dismayed by the huge bloody hill between us and the campsite. Damn you, geography. However, the campsite, Bel Air, was very nice, and allowed me to instate myself as Prince.
It is my opinion now, that a quick check of the shower-block in a campsite can tell you much about it. The Gov Campsite in Rouen, was simple yet effective. The one in Bel Air, was kinda wierd. The French have an odd take on urinals for a start, the epitome of which (I hope) was achieved in the campsite called Monaco Parc, where the urinals were opposite, with no barrier, the unisex basins. In the Bel Air shower block, the urinals were through a little set of western salon doors, while opposite it was what can only be described as a toilet/bidai, because I don't think campsites offer torture devices as standard. The final oddity was that the washing machines and tumble-dryers were located in the womens shower rooms, as opposed to the mens shower rooms, which were appliance free.
Leaving Bel Air the next day (late as usual) we cycled over desolate hill-top after desolate hill-top, which was all very dull. Finally we got to a place called Bonnieville, where our next campsite was to be found. Before we went we popped into the local boulangerie and boucherie to get supplies (a lovely chicken bolognese with wine for dinner), and I found the best brownies on God's green, if rather wet, earth. The campsite, however was a big disappointment, although to be far it is only the start of the season. It was very cheap though, and the owners were nice. I'm starting to think, however, that the French see tents as an afterthought when it comes to camping. Again the Monaco Parc place was literally a mobile town of mobile homes, whereas we found our tents pitched on what can only be described as a swamp (thankyou rain!).
Anyway, we were going to sleep - and I say sleep only because a stream of awakened consciousness intermittently, but unconsciously broken by small sleeps, such that it feels like you've been awake all night - in this cheap but nasty campsite on thursday night. The next day was were all the trouble began - and monaco parc!
Saturday, 8 March 2008
Wednesday, 5 March 2008
Day 2 & 3: From Dieppe to Rouen and Rouen again.
This trip is going to be so different from how I imagined it. There is very little time for oneself, as it gets dark so early, and there is so little light in which to cycle. Its already half 12 and we haven't got started on our next leg of the trip yet. I don't know when I'll have time to do a proper entry - hopefully orleans and tours willl offer another cyber cafe. I've seen so much already, yet we've only been gone for 3 days. I would love to get some pictures up, but computer says "no!" (sorry).
The trip out of Dieppe was amazing. Pitch black, except for what dannys light could show us. We cycled round and up this huge cliff on the western side, through the old town. the wind was so fierce, it made us sway from side to side quite dangerously. I know that the road wasn't that close, but it felt like the cliff edge was only inches away as we sped down in the dark, these terrifyingly sharp corners in the dark. If we hadn't had danny's front led light we would have had to stop for sure or risk falling off the edge of the france.
It felt like we made good time and though my map reading skills lacked somewhat, we seemed to be on the right path as the light poured in over the horizon. I thought there would be a difference in traffic, but largely the roads were clear the entire route (yellow d roads rock!). There were lots of ups and downs, which eventually started to make me very weary. I don't think I've ever wanted bed so much as I did then. We finally made it to Yvetot, where we hoped to find infomation about a campsite nearby. Unfortunately it seemed to be a bank holiday and it was shut. We had lunch in a small cafe, and I must say that the croque madame is an absolutely genius invention.
Off again, and we made it into a beautiful little town called Pavilly, just north of of Rouen, where we stopped off to get some bread. Up and over a few more hills and I was starting to curse the contents on my bike and danny as well, who seemed to pull out some much needed power on the last rise. Finally, racing down a hill we arrived at the outskirts of Rouen and tried to find the campsite that offered me bed and so much sleep.
We finally found the campsite, and after setting up the tents I lay down and fell into a deep sleep for an hour while danny went to the shops. It started to rain when he got back and woke me up, so we cooked in the tent (badly) by the light of my wind-up mp3 player.
It rained all night, not to mention was bitingly cold. My sleeping bag is meant to be three-season, but I definately should have got a warmer one. I actually thouoght my tent was leaking because my feet were so cold, my mind confused it with a feeling of wetness. I woke the next day to a horror of horrors, the tent had dyed everything the same colour as it - red! Never fear however, for it was just the light coming through the inner-sheet, but the illusion was quite astounding. The plan had been to leave that morning, but it would not stop raining and even hailing until early afternoon, so we decided to stay that night as well and spent the rest of the day in rouen, which is where I lost Danny.
More soon.
The trip out of Dieppe was amazing. Pitch black, except for what dannys light could show us. We cycled round and up this huge cliff on the western side, through the old town. the wind was so fierce, it made us sway from side to side quite dangerously. I know that the road wasn't that close, but it felt like the cliff edge was only inches away as we sped down in the dark, these terrifyingly sharp corners in the dark. If we hadn't had danny's front led light we would have had to stop for sure or risk falling off the edge of the france.
It felt like we made good time and though my map reading skills lacked somewhat, we seemed to be on the right path as the light poured in over the horizon. I thought there would be a difference in traffic, but largely the roads were clear the entire route (yellow d roads rock!). There were lots of ups and downs, which eventually started to make me very weary. I don't think I've ever wanted bed so much as I did then. We finally made it to Yvetot, where we hoped to find infomation about a campsite nearby. Unfortunately it seemed to be a bank holiday and it was shut. We had lunch in a small cafe, and I must say that the croque madame is an absolutely genius invention.
Off again, and we made it into a beautiful little town called Pavilly, just north of of Rouen, where we stopped off to get some bread. Up and over a few more hills and I was starting to curse the contents on my bike and danny as well, who seemed to pull out some much needed power on the last rise. Finally, racing down a hill we arrived at the outskirts of Rouen and tried to find the campsite that offered me bed and so much sleep.
We finally found the campsite, and after setting up the tents I lay down and fell into a deep sleep for an hour while danny went to the shops. It started to rain when he got back and woke me up, so we cooked in the tent (badly) by the light of my wind-up mp3 player.
It rained all night, not to mention was bitingly cold. My sleeping bag is meant to be three-season, but I definately should have got a warmer one. I actually thouoght my tent was leaking because my feet were so cold, my mind confused it with a feeling of wetness. I woke the next day to a horror of horrors, the tent had dyed everything the same colour as it - red! Never fear however, for it was just the light coming through the inner-sheet, but the illusion was quite astounding. The plan had been to leave that morning, but it would not stop raining and even hailing until early afternoon, so we decided to stay that night as well and spent the rest of the day in rouen, which is where I lost Danny.
More soon.
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